I think I saw her again today in the market, though I haven't downloaded those photos yet
As it was Saturday today, we had a day free of pilgrimage-related activities; we went to Acco to explore on our own. This was my first real experience of being in a thoroughly different culture!
Akko is a Muslim city; the Jewish cities of Haifa and Tel Aviv are more western in look and feel, although the architecture is of course different, with many crumblingly beautiful old buildings.
We had toured the old prison in Akko a few days ago, but rushed through the town just quickly enough to be intrigued; I had snapped the photo of the woman on the left as we rushed by. Today, we heard the muezzin call to prayer and saw many women wearing beautiful clothes like these, with brightly coloured fabrics, lush velvets, swirling patterns, sparkles.
I got yelled at for not being dressed decently when we tried to go into a mosque (where we had been directed to go to find a toilet, wrongly as it turned out). In the rush to find the bathroom, I had missed seeing the sign that said, ‘Holy place, must be decently dressed’. My hair and shoulders were uncovered, which was not acceptable; to be fair, they did have shawls hanging on hooks by the door that I could have donned in order to meet the standard. It was kind of like a restaurant that won’t let you in without a tie, but will offer you a tie at the door because they really do want to let you come in.
Once it was clear that this was a mosque and not the route to the WC, we left. Finding a toilet was a series of misadventures, up stairs and down, in and out of blind alleys, from one side of town to the other. A good lot of our wanderings about Acco were in search of the facilities. Finally relieved, we found the market, and the ocean, in that order.
The Akko market proper was a surreal experience! We thought we had seen the market; every street was lined with food stalls and umbrella vendors selling all sorts of goods. As we were leaving, we asked how to get to the ocean. We were told, ‘through the market’… um… market? You mean the street vendors? Shocked, she gasped, “You haven’t seen the market! You must see the market!”
She directed us into a labyrinth of tunnels, not easy at all to find, and it was a bizarre bazaar indeed. Surreal! It wound indoors and underground for what seemed like blocks, with fish stalls, food stalls, people selling goods of every conceivable type, crammed with so many people that when we wanted to purchase something we had to plant ourselves firmly to avoid being swept away.
I was more comfortable diving into the fray than Mom, so I spearheaded our journey against the flow of the crowd, which all seemed to be headed in the opposite direction from us. What fun! And yet, it was so thoroughly hidden that we had difficulty finding it again when we wanted to show some friends who had also missed it.
Thus far I am thoroughly impressed with the people here. Even the security guards that search my bags going into the mall have had a sweet smile and a friendly word to offer. I think I love it here, though I hear that summertime is not nearly so wonderful. Everyone loves spring… I do believe I got a sunburn on my nose today.